| # |
Description |
Schematic |
Images |
| 001 |
Konami 054986A
Audio module used on several Konami arcade PCBs including Lethal Enforcers, GI Joe, Violent Storm, etc
First
schematic was done in 2017. Second schematic was done in 2022 and has more detail. |
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| 002 |
Konami 005273
Custom resistor array used on almost all 80's and 90's Konami arcade PCBs for the inputs |
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| 003 |
Taito 48CR-1
Custom resistor array used on several Taito arcade PCBs for the inputs |
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| 004 |
Seibu HB41
Audio module used on several Seibu/TAD arcade PCBs including Cabal, Raiden, Toki, Blood Bros and some other non-Seibu
games such as Operation Wolf. The actual cost to make this was about $6.00
The part that usually fails is the 8 pin chip. This was
tested and worked perfect first time. The pic to the right is the first one I built using parts salvaged from a faulty original module. The
part sizes were larger than the proto module design (rev A) so I had to squeeze them in. The board has since been updated to use parts that
are the same size as the original so parts can be salvaged from a faulty module. The cost to build this is about $3-$6 depending on where
you get the tantalum caps from. The tantalum caps are the most expensive part and if you salvage them from the old module it will reduce the
cost by 50%.
The module was built and tested on a Blood Bros PCB and works perfect :-D
The schematic (with extra repair info) and board was also updated and posted here (Rev. B, Jan 2024). |
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| 005 |
Seibu HB45A
Audio module used on some Seibu arcade PCBs including Raiden II and *some* versions of Zero Team and Raiden DX. The
actual cost to make this was about $6.00 and most of that cost was the tantalum capacitors.
This was originally reversed by 'Pacman70' (old schematic shown to the right, with corrections) and was immediately targeted by the
usual 'perp' as useless and incomplete. You can read it here (mirrored locally). This is quite
funny.
- Firstly the voltage on the module is completely irrelevant. The input power comes from the main board where this module is plugged in. It is of course +12V on pin 9 of the module so any voltage on the schematic doesn't affect it.
- Secondly, the comment says there's no voltage on pin 8 of the NJM4560 op amp (it's just a LM358) and the 2x 2.2uF caps. Erm, they are *clearly* connected to pin 9 of the module so they are automatically connected to the power.
- Thirdly, the comment says the resistors under the NJM2060 op amp (it's just a LM324) are missing. I suggest you get your eyes checked buddy, they are there at R4, R5, R6, R10 & R11 LOL!!!!
So this proves the 'perp' didn't reverse it because if he did he would have known all of that and a lot more. He either paid someone to do it or a
different person did the reversing and he just ripped it off LOL! I suggest next time someone posts a schematic for something you just keep
your big mouth shut LOL!
I reversed a module I have here and checked everything. Once the parts are removed it's actually not that complicated. I scanned the board
and quickly cleaned it up in Photoshop and used that for verification when routing it. I found the only mistake on the other schematic was
C6 value is missing (it's 10nF) and C5 is supposed to be wired to pin 12 of the op amp not to the center of the 2x 33k resistors. All things
considered, the original published reversed schematic was a pretty good effort. Remember anything published is better than hoarding
everything and publishing nothing like the 'perp' does LOL!
Of course I re-reversed everything the 'Guru way' so the schematic is
now perfect and better than everything before it hehe! The footprint of the op amps covers both the 150mil and 200mil versions and the rest
of the design mirrors the original (i.e. no vias). This is effectively a 1:1 identical copy but using modern technology so it is repairable
now. The cost to build this is about $3-$6 depending on where you get the tantalum caps from. The tantalum caps are the most expensive part
and if you salvage them from the old module it will reduce the cost by 50%.
The module was built and tested on a Raiden II PCB and
works perfect :-D
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New Guru Schematic
old schematic
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| 006 |
Taito TC0070RGB
15-bit RGB DAC used on several Taito arcade PCBs including Chase HQ, SCI: Special Criminal Investigation, Operation Thunderbolt, Cadash, Ninja Warriors, Darius and many others. The legs often break off these or they get snapped in half by careless losers so it's better to just replace it with a proper solid PCB version. The actual cost to make this was about $5 |
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| 007 |
DECO CPU-7
Custom potted CPU module used on a few Data East games such as Burger Time and Zoar |
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| 008 |
DD1718PA Boost Module
Small module used to get higher voltages from a lower input voltage. This will output positive AND negative voltage. Simply change R1 to get a different output voltage. |
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| 009 |
IGS PGM Cave bootleg cart
Full schematic for a simple IGS PGM board-set you can make that plays 3 Cave bullet-hell shoot'em-ups....
Espgaluda, Ketsui and Do Donpachi Dai-Ou-Jou. |
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| 010 |
Full schematic for a Sega SC3000 multi-cart with 4MB capacity. This holds basically every SG1000 and SC3000 game ever made. |
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| 011 |
Full schematic for Namco System 23 main board. This is an 8-layer board. This took around 12 hours per day full time for 8 weeks to
reverse. As well as showing all the connections, all clock signals on all chips across the entire board have been measured and noted on the
schematic and brief descriptions of what all the custom chips are doing, as well as some chip-related repair infos. The schematic is a
single sheet approximately 2 meters square. To give you an idea how big this is, the NAMCO SYSTEM 23 text at the top is 100mm high. Yes,
really. This is a preview. The actual pdf schematic is not publicly available to avoid complaints from people creaming their pants when they
see it ;-) |
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| 012 |
Taito Cadash RS-422/RS-485 Communication Schematic.
Cadash is one of the few 80's games that has basic networking built in. It can be hooked up to another Cadash board for
2 player gaming. This schematic shows how the MCU is hooked up and the wiring of the inter-connect cable. |
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| 013 |
COSMO by TDS & Mints FULL Schematic.
This game runs on Taito 3-board color Space Invaders hardware with a custom top board added. I don't recall how long this took to reverse
and draw but it was at least a few weeks. This includes the special top board schematic including documenting the 8 connectors and where the
50+ wires are joined to on the main boards, as well as full schematics of all the specific Taito PCBs used on this game.
This is a
preview jpg. The actual 'readable' pdf will be released later after the game is fully working in MAME. I suggest one of the known developers
with many years of experience with TTL logic figures out the emulation, fixes it and more of these special schematics may be done for other
games to improve the emulation.
A video of me playing the game can be seen on my youtube channel here. |
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| 014 |
Atari 2600+ cart #1
Full schematic for a simple Atari 2600 cart that can select up to 16x 4kB (FIXED SIZE 4kB
ONLY) ROMs using a (ghetto) 4-position DIP switch. This is a reverse of the 10-in-1 pack-in cart that comes with
the A2600+. It uses a single SST39VF512 (64kB x 8-bit) TSOP32 flash ROM with only 40kB used and the remaining 24k
blank (00-filled). This isn't particularly exciting and obviously we can do MUCH better with almost no effort! See
the next item for something very similar but far more useful ;-) |
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| 015 |
Atari 2600+ cart #2
Full schematic for a simple yet much more useful Atari 2600 cart that can select up to 256x 4kB ROMs using 2x
16-position hexadecimal rotary switches. This rotary switch is what should have been shipped with the A2600+. It uses a single 16M-bit (2MB)
TSOP48 flash ROM. 256 x 4kB = 1MB but I have plenty of 29F016 flash ROMs in stock so that's what I'm using. Since the ROM is pre-selected
this cart will work with the A2600+ unlike most other multi-carts that don't work because the 2600+ is a ROM dumper and tries to dump the
ROM then run it from local RAM. |
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actual PCB produced |
| 016 |
Atari 2600+ cart #3
A nice Atari 2600+ multi-cart that uses a RPi pico to defeat Atari's non-support of multi-carts lol. The pico
emulates a 4k, 8k, 16k or 32k ROM and the switches allow hard selection of a bank that the A2600+ can't detect so it just loads the ROM
thinking it's a standard cart with the pico seamlessly taking care of bankswitching. This is a work-in-progress with my usual hex rotary
switches added and also using proper level shifter chips. Additionally a 74HC165 is hooked up to read the switches using only 4 GPIO pins.
Previously 4 GPIO pins were being used to read a 4-position DIP switch resulting in a maximum of 16 games selectable. Now with 2 rotary
switches the maximum selection is 256. If more GPIO can be found (only 1 exposed GPIO is free, but 4 more are available at the test points
when some parts are removed) support for 7800 ROMs may be possible.
This will need code changes to make it work with the 165 but it
seems the guy who was doing the original project coding has dropped off the side of the planet like a lot of random people do :-/
If I
ever get this working I'll post full schematic and gerbers but at this stage it's a non-working prototype preview. |
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| 017 |
The Simpsons Video Schematic (THE MISSING PAGES)
These are the missing video section schematic pages (2) for Konami's The
Simpsons arcade PCB. It is drawn using the same Konami style from 1991 so that it blends seamlessly with the existing partial schematic to
make it complete. It also includes the same logo/title block, sheet border, signal names and across-sheet signal references. Additionally,
Konami schematics show the custom chips as very long rectangles but in order for it to be more useful as a repair aid I drew the custom
chips as they are in real life, as squares and with in-order pin numbers. Print onto a single sheet of A3 paper (use both sides) and insert
into your original Simpsons manual for completeness. The schematic is large so zoom in to at least 300% to read it.
As for repairs, aside
from all the nasty Fujitsu logic chips used on these boards that fail, note the most common custom chips failures are a bad 053247 (sprites)
or a bad 051962 (backgrounds). These customs contain internal RAM and if you know anything about PCB repairs you will know RAM failure is
the most common fault on any PCB. If you have major sprite or background faults use the schematic to check the address and data pins and
most likely you will find some dead pins. Of course do that AFTER you have checked/replaced the ROMs/RAMs and connected logic.
There are
no plans to update this but if any errors or omissions are found/fixed there will be a note about it and the new version will be posted
here.
Initial Release: April 9, 2024.
Update (1) May 20, 2024 - Increased text sizes to match the original when printed at the
intended A3 size. |
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| 018 |
UnoCart with serial header
This is a normal Atari 2600 UnoCart (multi-cart using STM32F407VGT6 MCU) with the serial pins brought out
to a header and the BOOT0/BOOT1 pins as jumpers to enable the bootloader for serial programming mode. The original design has open-source
firmware but for some very strange reason the developer never released an official PCB design/gerbers even though he did produce a small PCB
that fits inside some sort of (not-existing) Atari 2600 cart shell shown at the top of the official manual LOL! Instead he told people to
use a ST Discovery board and a silly breakout board he made available. That was of course, a mistake LOL! So then a bunch of people figured
it out, copied it and made their own PCB and started selling the UnoCart but only with the SWD programming pins available (most likely
because they didn't fully understand the STM32, thus requiring a proprietary STLINK/V2 programmer) and skipping several other programming
methods built into the bootloader. Finally now we have something that can be programmed exactly like the Gotek Flash Floppy drive... at a
PC/desk using a cheap serial-USB adapter and 4 wires. The Unocart is a cheap alternative to the proprietary, locked up, expensive and
not-available Harmony/Melody multi-cart. It can run any cart (except a few homebrews but there's actually no need to use a new bankswitching
method as there are already plenty out there that can be used for software development.... think for an extra 30 seconds...) and supports
all the common bankswitch methods up to DPC. Pitfall II runs but the sound emulation is not the best with some notes off-pitch and the music
speed a bit too fast compared to an original cart, but it's playable. When I set up a compile environment I'll make some tweaks, recompile
the firmware and see if I can improve it. Until then it's usable as-is.
The PCB shown to the right has been re-created by me based on a couple of small photos posted by the designer bragging about it on a forum
lol! The first pic is the unreleased small PCB that fits inside a custom Atari 2600 cart shell shown on page 1 in the manual (the tags coming out the
left and right sides are totally non-standard).
This specific Guru version has some changes and enhancements and is very close to
Guru-Level perfection and fits inside a standard Atari 2600 shell. Of course it's also no longer 'unreleased' lol.
I should make this use a smaller STM32 chip as this huge 100 pin chip is rediculous since over half of the pins are not connected. A STM32F410CBU3 in QFN48 package might be the one to use but I have to look into it.... so many projects to fix hehe! |
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Unocart - original hoarded design
(does NOT fit inside a standard 2600 cart shell)
New Guru Design
(fits inside standard 2600 cart shell)
PCB Gerbers (coming soon)
FW: UnoCart 2600 V18
FW: PlusCart 2600 2.3.17
UnoCart 2600 Manual
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| 020 |
Pi JAMMA
This is an interface board allowing a RPi 3B or 3B+ to connect to any standard JAMMA arcade cabinet. The software shows some
games which can be selected with the joystick and played. The software is a bit janky and needs work but it is usable. The trace routing was
also the usual amateur mess. I took the existing janky board and made it better, using more common parts and removing some parts that do
nothing. Additionally, the original was using a silly AN7511 mono amp chip that costs $15 LOL! I removed it and used a cheap stereo amp
module. For any game that outputs stereo I now get sound out of both left/right cabinet speakers if it is wired for stereo. If there is only
1 speaker it outputs dual mono. Either way, now there's a choice. It also uses a cheap chinese HDMI to VGA converter box to convert the Pi's
HDMI video output to RGB so it works with any 15kHz arcade monitor with settings to output standard 31.5kHz VGA to an LCD monitor. There was
also many routing changes/clean-ups, removing holes for a bunch of parts that are not populated, fixing the Pi mounting holes to be the
*actual* standard and documented spacing 58mm x 49mm and removing a lazy jumper wire (LOL!) and re-routing that trace on the PCB. The
updated schematic, BOM and gerbers will be published later after my new version is built and tested.
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Schematic/BOM (coming soon)
PCB Gerbers (coming soon)
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| 021 |
Midway Space Invaders
1:1 *exact* reproduction of the Midway Space Invaders L-board. This is an officially released version that
Midway called the cocktail version. It uses an L-board that has all TTL logic and doesn't use the uncommon shifter chips so it can be
repaired no matter what the fault is. I suspect Midway were having trouble sourcing those shifter chips and redesigned it to use common
logic instead. Lucky for us since that makes it 100% reproducable. Primarily this was made to convert a bunch of junk Midway 8080 games to Space Invaders. But the official
schematic has some errors so this schematic fixes them and is 100% accurate to the real PCB. Maybe someone will look at it and fix the bad
fire sound in MAME ;-)
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PCB Gerbers (coming soon)
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| 022 |
MB834100 mask ROM to AM27C400 EPROM Adapter
This adapter can be used to replace any MB834100 mask ROM on any PCB. They were common on
Taito boards but it will work for any game that requires a mask ROM with the same pinout. You might see scumbags selling these for $$ but if
you're smart you'll just make your own adapter for $2.
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PCB Gerbers
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| 023 |
Sound Blaster MCA reproduction
This is a modern reproduction of the Sound Blaster card for IBM Microchannel PCs. I didn't reverse
this, I only modified it slightly to make it look more authentic:
- Tidied up the IC location texts
- Removed all the silly b.s. texts and silly logo
- Added a proper Sound Blaster logo
- Added proper board numbers / copyright texts
- Added chip part#'s to all ICs for easier building
This was done for Epictronics and you can watch a Youtube video about it here.
The original project is here (SB1.0 repro) and here (SB MCA repro). These have of course been backed up locally in case they are taken
offline ;-)
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PCB Gerbers
FIRMWARE (8751 MCU & CPLD)
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| 024 |
Sega Model 1 Sound Board Schematic
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Work-In-Progress
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| 023 |
Commodore C128D Internal 1571 Disk Controller "C128D DISK"
This is a 100% perfect 1:1 reproduction of the 1571 disk controller inside the plastic C128D.
Reversed by Guru in June/July 2024. Time taken was approximately 1 week from start to finish.... yes I'm very good at doing this ;-D
While this was an interesting reversing project for me (to help a local guy with a C128D and a weathered controller board), this will
probably only appeal to maybe 2 or 3 people who have a plastic case C128D with a broken and unrepairable internal C128D disk drive
controller board. By unrepairable I mean corroded beyond repair.... if you just have a non-working floppy drive the boards are pretty easy
to fix so just fix your board, no need to replace it with another one. It's basically all off-the-shelf parts except the read/write hybrid
and the 42 pin gate array. Neither of those parts are known to go bad (yet) so just replace all the other stuff on your board (or find the
actual fault and fix that) and your floppy drive will be working again. Note the 1571 double-sided drives are known to develop open
read/write heads so if your drive has no resistance on the read/write connector wires (consult the 1571 service manual for info) your drive
is toasted and there's nothing you can do about it... replacing the controller board won't fix your machine ;-)
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Schematic
(coming soon)
Schem is same as Commodore
'C128 INTEGRAL DISK' schematic just newly drawn so it
is clean, readable and has some small corrections.
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5 PCBs (just arrived)
Update 3rd November 2024 - Tested and worked perfect 1st time :-D
PCB Gerbers (coming soon)
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More coming soon..... |
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